Imagine a fashion collection so delicate, it’s crafted from the same material used to make paper flowers. Sounds risky, right? But here’s where it gets fascinating: London-based designers Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham didn’t just pull it off—they turned it into a breathtaking showcase of artistry. Their Fall 2026 collection for A Letter (formerly Aletta) debuted on a drizzle-free Friday night, and it was nothing short of magical. The duo’s obsession with material deconstruction, a nod to Postmodernism, reached new heights with this line, which Coomes described as ‘a lot more fragile’ than their previous work. Yet, it’s this fragility that makes it so captivating.
Both Coomes and Empringham, alumni of Jonathan Anderson’s JW Anderson and Loewe, respectively, are carving out a bold future for London’s fashion scene. Their collection is a testament to their innovative vision, blending ethereal gossamer pieces—like a mint top and cream dress layered over black brassieres—with more structured items, such as knit sweaters and A-line satin dresses. And this is the part most people miss: even a polka dot skirt set was meticulously crafted by layering hole-punched sheets, a detail that demands closer inspection. Thankfully, the collection is on display until Sunday, giving you ample time to appreciate the craftsmanship.
Amidst the delicate grandeur, one piece stood out for its simplicity: a plain black cotton T-shirt emblazoned with a bold ‘A,’ a playful nod to the brand’s name change. But this quirky detail sparked a thought-provoking question: if Coomes and Empringham could embody any alphabet letter, which would they choose? Coomes opted for ‘F,’ a straightforward nod to his first name, while Empringham chose ‘H,’ simply because ‘it sounds nice.’ But here’s the controversial part: does their choice reflect their personalities, or is it a subtle hint at their design philosophy? We’ll leave that for you to debate in the comments.
This collection isn’t just fashion—it’s a conversation starter, a blend of fragility and strength, tradition and innovation. It challenges us to rethink what clothing can be and how it’s made. So, we ask you: What letter would you choose, and why? And more importantly, what does this collection say about the future of fashion? Let’s discuss!
